Neck band forming apparatus



June 28, 1938. E. v. ToLEN ET A1. A 29122303 NECK BAND FORMING APPARATUSFiled March 18, 1933 2 .Sheets-Shee'; l

June 28, 193%. E. v.V ToLEN ET AL 2,322,303

NECK BAND FoRMrNG APPARATUS Filed WMarch 1s, 19573 2 sne'tssneet 2Patented June 28, 1938 UNITED STATES PATENT oEFlcE Ind.,

assignors to Reliance Manufacturing Company, Chicago, Ill., acorporation of Illinois Application March 18,

10 Claims.

Our invention relates to neck band forming apparatus. More especially itis concerned with apparatus for temporarily embossing the neck bands ofshirts in such a manner that the embostures may conveniently serve asguide marks subsequently to aid the sewing machine operator in attachingthe neck band to the collar band and to the body of the shirt'in theproper position. This embossing apparatus is incorporated in a foldingmachine of the type customarily used in forming the two plies of theneck band and folding over the margins of the plies. Our apparatussolves the problem of a ready and convenient adjustment of the locationof the embossings for different sizes of neck bands.

The embossed markings thus formed on the neck bands are an improvementover the previous practice of forming guide notchings in thefolded-under margins of the neck band. 'Ihe notches were not visible onthe face side of the neck band; and the notches weakened the strength ofthe double thickness of the material along the folded margins of theneck band.

The foregoing together with other objects, features and advantages ofour invention are set forth in the following description of a' specificembodimentthereof and illustrated in the accompanying drawings referredto, wherein:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the bed portion of a folding machine for neckband blanks (which may be considered asan adaptation of Fig. 3 of RobyPatent 1,600,364);

Fig. 2 is a bottom View on a slightly enlarged scale of the die headused in connection with the bed 'of Fig. 1 which view may be consideredas taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 3;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary transverse vertical section through theassembled bed and head and may be considered as taken on the lines 3-3of Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of a double neck band as produc-ed by theapparatus in Figs. 1, 2 and 3 and showing the'guide marks impressedtherein; and

Fig. 5 is a plan View of a shirt laid outside down on the table of asewing machine (the sewing machine being shown in plan section)illustrating how the collar is sewn to the neck band employing themarkings of our invention.

neck band with its embossed guide vmarkings,

then the folding machine and the features thereof whereby the embossedmarks are formed on the neck band, and then the operation of sewing the55. body and collar to the neck band.

We shall rst explain the construction of the' 1933, Serial No. 661,478

The two-ply neck band which we prefer to use in carrying out ourinvention may be of the conventional type in which pairs of similarblanks have their marginal edges turned back and creased by a foldingmachine. Fig. 4 shows the two-ply neck band B as it comes from thefolding machine. The two lplies Bl and B2 are initially internested inthe folding machine operation whereby their seam margins 20 are turned'back and creased. For use, the plies are of course pulled out of theinternesting relation and placed back to back with their seam marginstogether. This is accomplished by turning one of the plies endto end inrelation to the other ply.

A feature of our invention is the guide markings on the neck band plies,which are preferably in the form of bar-like embostures 2| at the collaredge near the ends, where the ends of the attaching edge of the collarcome, and 22 on the yoke edge and somewhat nearer the center, where theshoulder seams will come.

In Figs. l, 2 and 3'we have shown fragments of -the folding machinemechanism in which is incorporated means for forming these embossedguide-markings 2| and 22. Fig. 1 may be considered as an adaptation ofFig. 3 of Roby Patent 1,600,364 of September 21, 1926 and reference ismade to that patent for details of a satisfactory folding machine inwhich our embossing invention may be incorporated. A heating pad RIEB(for convenience we shall follow the reference characters of the Robypatent for analogous parts), which constitutes the platen, is mounted ona bed plate R51. A heat plate RI 34 is mounted a spaced distance abovethe bed plate with the folding sections RI36, R137 slidably mountedbetween the bed plate and the heating plate and in sliding contact withthe heating plate so that they absorb heat from the latter. A pair ofneck band blanks BI and B2 is placed upon the heat pad RI58 through theopening formed in the heating plate and folding sections. 'I'he diehead, the bottom `view of which is shown in Fg..2 comprising the end diesections'Rlll and the intermediate die section RIDS, are brought downinto this opening to clamp the neck band blanks against the heat padRi58, The folding sections Rl36 and RI 31 are then moved inwardly acrossthe margins of the openings to fold the seam margins 2U of the neck bandblanks upwardly and inwardly and to crease them in that position. Ifdesired, the margins of the blanks may previously have been saturatedwith a suitable solution--alcohol and water for example-to givesomething of a starched effect to the creased-over seamed mar-` gins andto the embostures 2| and 22. Following this folding and creasing action,the die head is lifted and the neck bands, whose margins have beencreased over the die sections, are stripped from the die sections andare ready for the previously described operation of turning one ply endto end in reference to the other, so that their seam margins cometogether.

I'he means we have shown incorporated in the folding machine, asillustrated in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, comprise cooperating male and femaledie elements formed in the heating pad R|58 and the end die sectionsRlll. To form the embostures 2| on the collar edge, a bar-like maleprotruding die element 2 IM is formed in or suitably attached to thesurface of each die section R|08 at the point on the collar edge of thedie section where the embosture 2| is to appear. At the correspondingregions on the heat pad R|58 are two series of complementary slots 2|Fconstituting the female die elements. (It will be remembered that Fig. 2is on a larger scale than Fig. 1.)

To form the yoke side embostures 22, similar die members are'employed,except that the male embostures 22M are on the heating pad and thefemale members 22]c are on the die section R||l8.

The reason that the die slots 2|F and 22F are multiplied into a group isto permit the die sections Rl 08 to be spaced farther apart or closertogether to adjust for different lengths of collar bands, there beingone slot 22F for example on each. die section RIUB for each adjustmentof that die section.

It will be observed that in forming the embostures 2|, the male diemember ZIM is carried by the die sections, whereas` in forming theembostures 22, the male die element 22M is carried by the heating pad.Ihe reason is this: The folding machine of Figs. 1, 2 and 3 isadjustable to take diierent lengths of collar bands. Thus on the diehead, the die sections R||l8 may be moved in or out relative to theintermediate die section RI 09. The heat plate R|34 and the foldingsections R|36 and R|3`| may be correspondingly adjusted to come somewhatcloser together or further apart. 'I'he heating pad R|58 is notadjusted. For different lengths of neck bands, the distance from thepointed end of the band to the embosture 2|, which is the point wherethe end of the collar comes, remains constant. Therefore the distancebetween the two embostures 2| must vary with different sizes. On theother hand the distance between the embostures 22, which marks theapproximate positions of the shoulder seam of the yoke, do not varysubstantially, or if they do vary, they do not Vary by as great adistance as the Variations in lengths of the collar band, and also aswill later appear, it is not so necessary that the embostures 22 bespaced a definite distance apart as it is that their spacing beequi-distant from the Vcenter of the band. If the male die elements 2 IMwere on.

Having thus explained the construction of the two-ply neck bands withtheir embossed guide marks and the apparatus and method whereby they areformed, we shall now describe the method and apparatus used inassembling the neck band body and collar:

Referring to Fig. 5, the body of the shirt comprises the usual yoke 30,the left front piece 3|L; the right front piece SIR. and the back piece32. In the sewing operation, the shirt body assembly lies with itsinside up on the sewing machine table 33 initially at the left of theneedle 34. The collar band plies BI and B2 are arranged as previouslydescribed with their in-creased seam margins facing each other. To sewthe collar band to the body assembly, the stitching is commenced at thebutton end b of the band, where the loose ends of the threads areindicated at 35. The line of stitching 35 is run along the margins ofthe respective plies of the bands with the body assembly between theplies. Thus the band is sewn first to the righthand side piece 3| R,then to the yoke 3l) and then to the left hand side piece 3| L. When theneedle reaches the buttonhole point bh, the sewing machine is stoppedand the entire assembly is rotated clockwise about the needle as a pivotuntil the body assembly lies to the right of the needle somewhat asshown in Fig. 5.

Then the second line of stitching 35ct-which is really but acontinuation of the rst line 35- sews directly together the respectiveplies of the neck band between the point and the place where the collaris to be inserted. The operator inserts the collar to registersubstantially with the embosture 2 I. Then the line of stitching 35a iscontinued to stitch the two plies of the collar band together with theedge of the collar assembly between them. In Fig. 5 the second line ofstitching 35a has progressed about half way. After it reaches the secondembosture 2| which cornes at the other end of the collar, the stitchingcontinues to the button point b, stitching the ends of the neck bandplies directly together. The second line of stitching 35a. terminates atthe same point where the line of stitching 35 commenced.

The sewing operation may be facilitated by the use of the guide 31removably carried by the plate 38 as described and claimed in ourcopending application Serial No. 661,479 filed March 18, 1933. Theconstruction of the shirt and the method of making it are disclosed ingreater detail and claimed in our copending application Serial No.661,476 le'd March 18, 1933.

The embostures 22 substantially align with the shoulder seams 3| betweenthe yoke and the side pieces.` Thisalignment is calculated to serve as aguide for the operator in giving the right amount of pull to the variousparts. The under feed dog of the sewing machine has a tendency to makethe lowermost ply of the goods being sewn overrun the upper plies. Theneck band should be a trie shorter on the inside than on the outside sothat the neck will t properly when being worn'. The embostures 22 thusserve as a guide to enable the operator to see that the properlongitudinal relations between the parts are being kept as the stitching35 progresses.

The embostures 2| on the collar side of the band serve as guides to showthe operator the exact point where the collar is to be inserted in theband. 'I'his determines the proper longitudinal relationship between thecollar and .the

band. When a guide such as indicated at 31 and described in ourpreviously mentioned applicationl on the sewing machine, is used, theguide embosture 2| also marks the point in the stitching at which theguide is. to be thrown into position to guide the collar relative torthe band and the needle. As suggested in Fig. 5,.the second em'-bosture 2| encountered by the needle may slightly overrun the end of thecollar due to the factthat the button end b of the neck band should notproject so far beyond the end of the collar as does the buttonhole end.We contemplate there# fore that it may be arranged to have the embosture2 I at the button end of the neck band which is sewn last, spacedsomewhat nearer the point than is the other embosture 2l, in locatingthe die members in the embossing mechanism incorporated in the foldingmachine. The presence of the embosture 2| at the end of the neck bandlast sewn is of advantage in enabling the operator to gauge that thefeed as between upper and lower plies and also relative to the collarassembly, is progressing satisfactorily so that the assembly will comeout correctly.

The use of a guide mark for the neck band in the form of an embosturethereon has several advantages: It is exposed on the top side of thework where it is readily seen; guide marks in the form of notches in thein-creased seam margins ofthe band plies are not readily visible. Itresults in no structural weakness. There is no color or foreignsubstance involved which might soil a completed shirt. It is notpermanent and it is not obtrusive; by the time the shirt reaches thecustomer it is scarcely visible and in any event disappears completelywith the rst washing. It involves no additional labor expense; cuttingnotches as guide marks in the aggregate add substantially to the laborin cutting (with the additional danger of cutting the notch too deeplyand thereby spoiling the piece for use) and in the labor of the sewingmachine operator where the speed does not have to be slowed down becauseof the obscurity of the marking.

While We have thus describd this specific embodiment of our invention,we contemplate that changes may be made therefrom without departing fromthe scope or spirit of our invention. Among other things, weparticularly contemplate that certain features of our invention may beapplied to other phases of garment making than the Vattachment of neckbands.

We claim:

1. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on the collar edge of a fabricneck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting die head havinglongitudinally adjustable portions adapted for different lengths ofbands, short marginal male embossing die members carried by the die headand disposed at fixed distances inwardly from the ends thereof, aplurality of longitudinally spaced female embossing die members formedin the platen for cooperating with the first-mentioned die members forembossing, in the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide marks atthe points where the ends of the collar are to come, the male embossingdie members cooperating with different embossing die members in theplaten for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head.

2. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on the collar edge and on thebody edge of a fabric neck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting diehead having longitudinally adjustable portions adapted for differentlengths of bands, male embossing die members carried by the die head anddisposed at fixed distancesl inwardly from the ends thereof, a pluralityof longitudinally spaced female embossing die members formed in theplaten for cooperating with the first-mentioned die members forembossing, in

' the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide marks at the pointswhere the ends of the. collar are to come, the male embossing diemembers cooperating with different embossing die members in the platenfor different longitudinal adjustments of the die head, and a pair ofmale embossing die members in the platen at the body edge of the bandand cooperating longitudinally spaced embossing members carried by thedie head for forming embossed guide marks on the body edge at the pointswhere the shoulder seams of the body are to come, the male embossing diemember on the body edge cooperating with different cooperating diemembers in the die head for different longitudinal adjustments of thedie head.

3. An apparatus for embossing guide marks on the collar edge and on thebody edge of a fabric neck band, comprising a platen, a co-acting diehead having longitudinally adjustable portions adapted for differentlengths of bands, male embossing die members carried by the die head anddisposed at fixed distances inwardly from the ends thereof, a pluralityof longitudinally spaced female embossing die members formed in theplaten for cooperating with the first-mentioned die members forembossing, in the collar edge of the band, short marginal guide marks atthe points where the ends of the collar are to come, the male embossingdie members cooperating with different embossing die members in theplaten for different longitudinal adjustments of the die head, and apair of male embossing die members in the platen at the body edge of theband and cooperating longitudinally spaced embossing members carried bythe die head for forming short marginal embossed guide marks on the bodyedge at the points where the shoulder seams of the body are to come, themale embossing die member on the body edge cooperatn ing with differentcooperating die members in the die head for different longitudinaladjustments of the die head whereby, with different longitudinaladjustments of the die head, the embostures formed on the body side ofthe band remain ai; fixed distances apart while the embostures formed on.the collar side of the band vary in their distance apart but remainconstant in their distance in from the adjacent end of the band.

4. A fabric folding and marking machine comprising a shaping die, meanscooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die, andmeans associated with said die for marking the fabric section atpredetermined points relative to the folds formed therein, said shapingdie having shiftable sections for varying the dimensions of the shapedfolded fabric section, and said marking means being shiftable forobtaining a predetermined relation between the marking means and thefolds in the fabric seci tions for all adjustments of the shaping die.

5. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate, ashaping die, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric sectionover said die to form a shaped collar band, means associated with saiddie and bed plate for marking the shaped collar band at predeterminedpoints relative to the ends and center thereof, said shaping die havingshiftable sections for varying the length of the collar band, and saidmarking means being shiftable for obtaining a predetermined relationbetween the marking means and the fold in the fabric sections for alladjustments of the shaping die.

6. A collar band folding and marking machine comprising a bed plate, ashaping die, means cooperating therewith for folding a fabric sectionover said die to form a shaped collar band, said shaping die havingshiftable end sections for varying the length of the collar band, eachend section having a projecting lug on its under. face at a fixedpredetermined position from the end of the section, and said bed platehaving a series of recesses at each end of the shaping die a unitdistance apart, one of which recesses has a projecting lug on the endsection associated therewith for creasing the fabric a predetermineddistance from the ends of the collar band for all adjustments of thedie.

7. A fabric folding and marking machine comprising a shaping die, meanscooperating therewith for folding a fabric section over said die, meansassociated with said die for marking the fabric section at a pluralityof predetermined points relative to the folds formed therein, saidshaping die being adjustable for folding fabric sections of differentsizes, and said marking means being shiftable for obtaining apredetermined relation between the marking means and the folds in thefabric sections for all adjustments of the shaping die.

8. In a machine for infolding blanks for collars and the like andimpressing location marks adjacent the periphery thereof, to assistregistration in subsequent stitching thereof to a garment or likearticle, the combination with a blank supporting bed, having a recess orgroove beneath each location to be marked, a blank defining templethaving an underneath projection or boss at each location to be marked,and means for infolding the blank edge or edges while resting on the bedand defined by the templet, whereby the blank is enfolded and impressedwith location marks at the required peripheral points; the templet beinglengthwise adjustable for size and the projection being therebyadjustable in location for each adjustment for size, and the bed beingadapted to present a recess opposite each such location of theprojection.

9. In a machine for infolding blanks for collars and the like andimpressing location marks adjacent the periphery thereof, to assistregistration in subsequent stitching thereof to a garment or likearticle, the combination with a blank supporting bed formed with aseries of recesses, a blank defining templet having an underneathprojection or boss at each location to be marked, and means forinfolding the blank edge or edges while resting on the bed and dened bythe templet, whereby the blank is infolded and impressed with locationmarks at the required peripheral points; the templet being lengthwiseadjustable for size and the projection being thereby adjustable inlocation for each adjustment for size, and the bed being adapted topresent a recess opposite each such location of the projection.

10. A machine for infolding the edges 0f a collar band and impressingtemporary location marks adjacent both sides of the periphery thereof,to assist subsequent registration with and stitching both to a shirt andto a collar top, comprising in combination, a blank supporting bed, ablank dening member fitted to descend upon a blank upon the bed and toretract upwardly, and infolding members tted to move inwardly forinfolding the opposite blank edges while resting on the supporting bedand defined by the defining member, and to retract outwardly; one ofsaid members and the bed having at each side margin of the blank a pairof complementary impression elements, namely a short projection and anopposing recess, one pair impressing the band at a position forregistration with a shirt body and another pair impressing the band atthe'opposite side for registration with a collar top, whereby with asingle operation of the dening member and infolding member the blank isdefined, infolded and impressed with marginal registration marks at therequired peripheral points at both sides of the collar band blank, theblank dening member having means for adjusting its dimensions, and thesupporting bed being adapted to present an impression element inposition for each adjusted position of the opposing impression element.

EARL V. TOLEN. CHARLES B. HARBSTREIT.

